Fridges and fridge-freezers work hardest of any kitchen appliance. Light maintenance keeps temperatures stable, saves energy, and reduces unnecessary call-outs. Always defer to your user manual for model-specific advice.
Temperature and controls
Check that the thermostat or electronic setting has not been knocked to a warmer position. Fridge compartments are typically around 3–5°C; freezers should stay well below freezing. If readings drift after a door has been left open, allow several hours before assuming there is a fault.
Airflow around the cabinet
Built-in and under-counter models need the ventilation gaps specified in the installation guide. Do not push the unit hard against a wall if clearance is required. Freestanding units also need space so the condenser can reject heat — a tight alcove without airflow makes the compressor run longer.
Condenser coils (where accessible)
On some models you can reach a rear or base condenser to gently vacuum dust from the fins. Others are sealed — if yours is not obviously accessible, do not dismantle the machine. Dusty coils raise energy use and can contribute to overheating cut-outs.
Door seals
Wipe gaskets with mild soapy water; inspect for cracks or stiffness. The classic “banknote test” — paper should drag slightly when closed in the door — shows whether the seal contacts evenly. A weak seal lets warm air in and causes ice build-up in frost-free models or excessive running.
Inside the compartments
Do not block internal air vents with large packs; cold air must circulate. Defrost manual freezers when ice exceeds the manual’s recommended thickness. For frost-free appliances, heavy icing or water under the salad drawer can indicate a drain or defrost issue — book a repair rather than chipping ice aggressively.
Noises and smells
Occasional cracking sounds can be expansion and contraction. New buzzing after years of quiet running, burning smells, or water pooling inside daily need professional attention.
For faults that persist, book a repair online.
